Posted on September 16 2022
It was those divers, with their simple aesthetic and colourful dials that first piqued my interest in the brand. Off the top of my head, I was unable to think of another watchmaker that had recreated the beautiful retro-styling of Zodiac's iconic 1950s Sea-Wolf diver.
Once I saw that watch I was hooked.
I had to dig a little deeper, and below is the result. These are the five watches that I believe best showcase this new watch brand. As you'll see, there's a mix of styles. On the whole, Heritor watches are powered by Japanese automatic movements and tend to be larger than the vintage originals that inspired them.
I've weighted my list more to the straightforward styled watches and only included one model with an elaborate design, despite these intricate dress watches making up the bulk of the brands' output. It's my preference and an attempt to point you in the direction of where Heritor is at its finest.
It has three hands and a date window, offering the essentials with an understated aesthetic.
At 40mm wide, and with a height of 13mm, this is a very practical and wearable piece. The stainless steel case houses an attractive dial that features an outer minute track, spartan indexes and a contrasting inner ring. This classical styling gives the Ashton a smart appearance, with the aged-looking strap softening the dress watch vibe.
But there's a surprise.
The case edges are engraved with an attractive pattern that gives the watch a unique selling point. What I love is that it doesn't overwhelm or alter the mood of the watch. The two-tone colouring and pared-down build mean that the watch still remains understated - despite the ornate case edges.
There's a prominent cyclops lens above the date window and an exhibition back displaying the automatic movement. Nice touches that enhance the design.
Make this your first stop when you check out Heritor watches.
Heritor Ashton HERHS1401
If you're familiar with vintage divers watches you'll recognise the Heritor Pierce. It takes inspiration from one of Japan's most iconic diver watches, Seiko's 6105 - better known as the Captain Willard.
The original watch was worn in the Apocalypse Now movie meaning vintage examples are pricey. And Seiko's reissues tend to be relatively expensive too.
That makes the Heritor Pierce an interesting watch. It's a faithful homage to the 60s original and even features a reliable Japanese NH35 movement.
Stylistically, it's a beauty. The distinctive turtle case is as eye-catching as the original and as expected, the crown is repositioned to 4 o'clock - useful if you don't like the crown digging into the back of your hand.
As a military-issued divers watch, the Seiko 6105 was a functional piece with a very legible layout. The Heritor homage follows that lead, with the same bold indexes and prominent bezel. The hands are easy to read and the substantial 43mm case should be able to take a few knocks.
It has 200M of water resistance and a simple black leather strap.
Heritor Pierce HERHS1203
In a similar vein to the Captain Willard, the Heritor Edgard again mimics the style of a popular vintage watch. This time it's Zodiac's Super Sea-Wolf.
The Sea-Wolf was one of the first modern dive watches and made its debut in 1953, a year before Rolex released the legendary Submariner. Swiss watchmaker Zodiac still produces the Sea-Wolf and this variation, with the teal bezel and orange chapter ring, is nicknamed the 'watermelon'.
Heritor's interpretation of the design has beefed up the case, and it's now a robust 45mm wide and 15mm thick. Once more, the engine inside is a reliable Japanese calibre and like other Heritor watches, the dial is protected by a mineral crystal.
Like each of Heritor's divers, this is a legitimate dive watch. It boasts 200M of water resistance and a rotating bezel.
But let's be honest, you don't wear a watch like the Edgard for diving. You'd wear this to rock a very colourful and noticeable retro watch. It screams the 1960s, but at a more affordable price point than the Zodiac original.
Heritor Edgard HERHR9101
The Heritor Legacy epitomizes the brand more than some of the other models I've highlighted. It's both more ornate and more traditional than the functional pieces that I usually gravitate towards. Having said that, the Legacy is still a substantial watch with the stainless steel case measuring 44mm - quite large for this style of watch.
The dial is what really makes this watch such a stunning model. It's made from vitreous enamel and features a complex design boasting a selection of blues and turquoise. The impression is of a high-end watch, rather than an affordable piece. Something many of us want in a modestly priced watch.
The tasteful sub-dials for the day of the week and the date are certainly more elaborate than the more common date window, but remember, this is still an inexpensive watch. So the movement is another Japanese automatic calibre. It powers the attractive alpha-style hands that finish off the dial layout.
The Heritor Legacy offers unstrained elegance and gives the impression of a high-end luxury piece.
Heritor Legacy HERHR9701
The final watch that I'd like to highlight is a contrasting piece that demonstrates the range of styles available from Heritor. Unlike the Legacy, the Becker is a straightforward watch that succeeds due to the simplicity of the design.
The watch is pared-down and utilitarian with a simple white dial with bold Arabic numerals at 12 and 6. The appeal of this watch lies in the two-tone colour palette that does nothing more than is necessary - quite a contrast to the flamboyant Legacy.
The spartan dial is bordered by a black minute track and the indexes are functional, slim and silver-coloured. In keeping with the rest of the design, the hands are simple, with the dot on the second hand being the nearest this watch comes to flair. There's a date window in the traditional 3 o'clock position and the dial text is kept to a minimum.
This is a nice watch to round out the list with. It's a simple piece that does the basics well and sits comfortably between tool and dress watches. It's a great place to start if you're new to the brand.
Heritor Becker HERHR9061
Heritor is a new brand and is beginning to make a name for itself. You may see some at quite high prices, but don't worry, if you shop around you can usually get a good deal.
Of the most notable Heritor watches, I'm a fan of the functional models rather than the more elaborate designs. But that's just my preference - I'd suggest that you still explore the open-heart and skeleton models. And when you do? Let me know your thoughts below.